The Purple Mango Post

Photographs, dispatches and writing by freelance journalist Corinne Purtill

A thesaurus, a grammar book, and a grip on reality.

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Shakespeare & Co., Paris

This article from the Guardian has been making the rounds on blogs and email lists populated by writer-types. It's a compendium of great writing advice by great writers. It's also organized in helpful list form. Lists are good.

Number Seven on Margaret Atwood's list stepped off the screen, slapped me across the face, poured me a cup of black coffee and told me to get back to work when I really needed to hear that. On this snowy New York morning, I hope you find a piece of advice that shakes you awake as well.

You most likely need a thesaurus, a rudimentary grammar book, and a grip on reality. This latter means: there's no free lunch. Writing is work. It's also gambling. You don't get a pension plan. Other people can help you a bit, but essentially you're on your own. Nobody is making you do this: you chose it, so don't whine.
--Margaret Atwood
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Laundry Day

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Meknes, Morocco.

No. Not tonight. I don’t have the strength. Come on, laundry card machine. Be cool. Just do this for me once, and I swear I won’t be back for another three weeks. Please. Please just accept this ten-dollar bill, and credit it to my card, and let me go wash my undies.

I don’t get what your problem is. You’re an 18 by 12 inch metal box in the basement of my building, the same color as the wall. Your sole function in this world is to accept ten- and twenty-dollar bills – only ten- and twenty-dollar bills! – and magically transfer their value to the little plastic card that goes into the washing machine. It’s not a hard job. You are not asked for much. And yet every three weeks I stand before you powerless, futilely hoping I’ve at last found a bill that meets your unattainably high standards. I run my fingers over them like they are the Queen’s linens, unfurling the corners and smoothing imaginary wrinkles out of Andrew Jackson’s visage, and you spit my money back out like a petulant child. Is this a power trip for you? Do you need to show the Coke machine that you’re a big deal too? What?

I’m sorry. I didn’t mean that. Please, don’t reject this one – damn.

You don’t know what I went through to get you this ten. Not to get ten dollars – this ten-dollar bill. I had three fives and four singles in my wallet. Enough for nine loads of laundry, by my count. But that’s not good enough for you. Only tens and twenties for my wall-mounted princess. I went to a Duane Reade, a CVS and two delis before I found someone willing to part with a Hamilton.

And it’s laundry day. Do you know how a bodega cashier looks at you when you roll up in your husband’s last clean undershirt and the gym shorts with the saggy seat, rambling on about a ten-dollar bill? Like you’re a crackhead. He looks at you like you want that money for illegal drugs. It’s not fun.

Looky here. This little sticker says that soon you’ll only take the “new” bills. Oh, that’s rich. 

Okay. I am going to try this one last time. I am going to smooth this bill as flat as a new dryer sheet. I am going to take a deep breath and feed it to you one more time, edges perfectly perpendicular to your surface. I will accept the things I cannot change, and pray for the wisdom not to rip you from the wall if this doesn't work.

Oh my God. You took it. Thank you. Thank you! You don’t know what this means to me. I’m going to do my laundry. I’m going to stake out that corner washer, load it to the brim with socks and t-shirts, and God help anyone in this building who opens up the lid before the spin cycle is finished.

Except I just realized something.

I’m out of detergent. 

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Tragedy in Meknes

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Meknes, Morocco.  

I was deeply sad to read this news this weekend: a 400-year-old minaret collapsed during a prayer service in Meknes, Morocco, killing 41 worshippers and injuring scores more.

I spent a day in January wandering the labyrinth streets of the Meknes medina, the ancient part of the city where this mosque was. After several hours of wandering, I found myself hopelessly lost. When I stopped to ask a woman for directions, she paused and then motioned for me to follow her. I thought she would just walk me to the next corner and point; instead, she led me through turn after turn, expertly navigating the twisted streets, until we reached the open square. She smiled, waved, and walked away. 

The minaret, in the heart of the UNESCO-recognized medina, was reportedly in bad shape for years. Moroccan authorities are working now to determine the cause of the collapse, and locals are furious that it took this tragedy for someone to listen to their concerns. The king has promised to review the safety of all the country's aging mosques - and to pay for the victims' funerals from his personal accounts. 

 

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Pain au Chocolat

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Paris

Is there anything nicer than a buttery, crispy pain au chocolat, a steaming cafe creme, a good book and a table by the window on a chilly winter's day? No. I agree. There is not. 

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Cambodia: Home, Reconsidered

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Elderly couple walking home, Ratanakiri, Cambodia.

I was working on a chapter today and needed to refresh my memory of a story I wrote in Cambodia back in 2004. Along with several other reporters from my paper, I had traveled to Ratanakiri to confirm reports of Montagnard asylum-seekers hiding in the province. The Cambodian government was denying the existence of these ethnic minority refugees within their borders, while accepting payments to illegally deport them to Vietnam. Our paper's reporting, along with the work of very courageous local rights advocates, helped bring enough attention to their plight that the government was forced to allow aid workers access to them.

I wrote this story about the experience for Stanford Magazine. Reading it today brings up a lot of emotions. And I am still awestruck by how illustrator Matthew Cook, without any additional photos or notes from me, managed to produce a beautiful illustration that nearly exactly captures what I saw that night. 

http://www.stanfordalumni.org/news/magazine/2005/marapr/dept/email.html
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A Horse Is A Horse

We spent President's Day weekend skiing with a friend in Vermont and staying with her family just across the border in New Hampshire. Yesterday we visited her brother's horses at the stables. I had fallen a little behind the rest of the group in the corral - my California feet are a little less sure in the snow - when I felt warm breath on the back of my neck, and the distinct sense that I was being . . . followed. 

So I turned around. 

I took the second photo after I'd backed away. Slowly.

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Little People, Big World

Our second day in Morocco happened to be New Year's Day. We woke up in the early afternoon (which is sometimes what happens when your previous night ends at 5 a.m.), fortified ourselves on couscous, then got in the car and drove to Spain. 

We did not drive to "Spain" Spain,  the country that is actually attached to Western Europe. We drove to a city on the northern coast of Morocco called Ceuta, one of two autonomous cities in Morocco that Spain claims as its last holdings there. Spain's relationship to Ceuta is like if you were renting a house, and then you moved out and the actual owners moved back in, but instead of leaving them alone you continued to refer to the house as your "summer home" and continued to hold parties in the backyard, left heavy rusting appliances on the lawn and had your mail and packages sent there. The way the home's owners would feel about you is very similar to the way Moroccans feel about the Spanish claims to Ceuta. 

Arriving in Ceuta from Morocco is disorienting. It looks like Europe. It acts like Europe. You get your passport stamped, pull Euros out of the ATMs and speak Spanish to shop owners. When we arrived most businesses were closed for New Year's Day, and the only place we could find for dinner was the Chinese restaurant (side note to Jewish friends: I understand your Christmas Day loyalties now). Ordering Chinese food in Spanish in North Africa almost blew our minds. 

The next morning we walked around the city, pausing to admire old Spanish churches and old military ramparts. We also visited the Museo Municipal de Ceuta, most of which was given over to elaborate displays of tiny figurines depicting various battles and regimes in history - the Trojans, Vikings, Egyptians. My favorite was the grand little display of the British Raj, featuring the memsahib and governor surveying the locals from atop an elephant. They reminded me of the brilliant Little People project. In both circumstances, you feel sympathy for these tiny characters who don't know that their power is outmatched by the world around them. It seems an apt metaphor for the people who are determined to preserve these European bastions in Northern Africa - carefully arranging a tiny little world that's completely out of context with the reality around them.

(PS: You can also see these photos on my RedBubble gallery.)

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New Photos Added on RedBubble!

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Belvedere Castle, Central Park, New York City. 

With a little indoor time on my hands today during New York's own mini-Snowpocalypse, I added a series of new photographs to my RedBubble site. I'm proud and excited to unveil this batch. These are images I've taken in the last few whirlwind months, in places that mean a great deal to me - New York City, Paris, London, Morocco, Concord. I hope you enjoy looking at these moments as much as I enjoyed finding them. 

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Thought for the Day

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Paris metro

The shortest distance between two points is not a line, but a dream.

--Malian proverb
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Evil Eye

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Rabat, Morocco

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